Test Launches

On Sunday, October 26, I took the canoe out for a test launch with the boys.  The canoe is not yet finished.  It has two coats of primer outside, and will receive two more.  Fairing is needed inside.  The breasthooks are not installed, although thwarts are installed at the breasthooks.  After all of that, it needs paint.  We are taking it out because it is ready enough, and we don't want to wait until next spring.

Renee wanted to go, but her work schedule, combined with a little car trouble, bumped her to another trip.  Not only was this a test launch for the canoe, it was a test for my redneck conoe rack assembled from 2x4's and sheetrock screws.  The rack worked well, by the way.

My crew for the day.

The launch site was  Lake Crabtree County Park in Cary, NC.

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I had the boys paddle out for pictures.  These two pictures look calm and peaceful as the canoe makes a turn back to the beach.  The actual scene was much more chaotic as they learned that side-to-side motions in a round bottom canoe cause a lot of tipping.  No one got wet, and no water was taken aboard.

The best picture we'll have until it is painted.

The weather was very calm, as you can see.  We paddled the length of the lake, beached the canoe, hiked a few hundred feet of the greenway there, and found a spinning reel on the beach.  It worked.

I went back out Monday with Renee and her friend Nikki from work.  Another calm day.  We paddled the length of the lake again.

This canoe feels tippy because of the rounded bottom, but has good secondary stability.  It won't capsize or take water unless you panic, or are trying very hard.  The tracking is excellent.  It paddles easily, and two paddlers can achieve good speed.  It steers easily.  If you are considering building a canoe, I would recommend this one.

Outside Fairing Done, Priming Begun

It seems I have been fairing forever.  For the last month, I have rushed home from work everyday, carried or rolled the canoe out into the driveway, and sanded.  And sanded.  And sanded.  Then, I wiped down the entire canoe, a dried it.  And then, mix up a batch of fairing putty (a sort of bondo for boats), try to spread it all out where it is needed before it is too stiff, and even spread some after it is too stiff.  Everyday. And this is the outside only.  The inside will come later.

For fairing the outside, I used blended filler of microballoons and colloidal silica in epoxy.  The microballoons are very fine, and so is the silica, so I wear a good respirator for mixing, fairing, sanding, and cleaning up.  At first, I purchased blended filler from BoatBuilderCentral.com, but after I discovered how much I would need, I mixed my own.  It's cheaper.

A lot of fairing has been required to cover up my early  mistakes.  I had misaligned the panels in several places.  I built up the hollow areas in several layers.

Covered in fairing compound.

Staying safe.   The dust is fine, and contains silica.

Now that the fairing appears finished,  I am going to prime the outside to seal the fairing in anticipation of a test launch of the canoe.  I am using System Three Silver Tip Yacht Primer.

I applied two coats of primer (so far) with a foam roller.  I used the Whizz brand from Lowe's.  Two rollers were required to roll on a full coat of primer onto the canoe. The primer went on well.  I rolled and tipped (probably not necessary, but it didn't hurt).

Priming exposed a few imperfections I will fix later.  Here is the primed canoe.

Tie Down Holes

I asked for ideas on the bateau forum on how to include tie down points in my canoe.  I received many good suggestions, and they guided my design.

Some suggested a handle.  I did install a handle.  It is for carrying, not tying down.

I settled on holes through a glob of putty. I wouldn't call it an endpour. Each blob is only 3 ounces plus wood flour. I did not care about how the blob looks because I am going to hide it with foam under the breasthooks.   Above, you can see the cleats for the breasthook.

First, a 5/8" hole 1/4" to 1/2" inch behind the end fillets. 

Then I inserted a 1/2" OD PE tube as a form.  I chose poluethylene because it retained its round cross-section, which vinyl tubing does not.

I globbed 1 1/2 ounces of putty (falf of a batch) around the tube on each end, making sure it squeezed  out past the tube to the outside of the canoe.  After it hardened, I put another half batch on to caver the tube well.  I only have a picture with half of the putty on. 

A few days later, I gripped the tube, twisted hard, and pulled it right out, leaving behind a glass smooth tunnel through the end.  I dressed the hole with a bevel.  I will graphite the interior, not because it is necessary, but because it will look good. 

Here, you see it in action.

The Work Cart

Until now, I have been workin with the canoe on a pair of sawhorses.  I like to sand outside.  Getting the canoe in and out of the garage by myself is an ordeal.  Then the final straw - the sawhorses are never the right height for comfortable work.  After sanding the underside of the rubrails, I spent the next day moving gingerly because of back spasms.

I needed a cart.  The requirements?  It has to be capable of supporting the canoe (16') and the D4 dinghy (7 1/2').  It has to roll in and out of the garage.  The height has to be adjustable 24" to 40".  It has to be stable and sturdy.

After a couple of trips to Lowe's for 2x4's, sheet rock screws, castors, and dowels, here is the result, nearly finished.

The uprights are two 2x4's with a sliding 2x4 in between.  The height is set with 2 dowels in each upright.  Working is so much more comfortable now.

In the picture below, it is finished.  The bracing makes a handy lumber storage rack.